How to Root Mandevilla Cuttings

Mandevilla - Instructions for Cutting & Propagating - Dipladenia, Sundaville

The Mandevilla is a typical hanging plant, although there are species with upright, climbing and lying growth. In some species, the stem axis partially lignifies. The varieties that emerged from the Mandevilla are offered under the names "Sundaville", "Diamantina" and "Tropidenia". The diameter of the different colored flowers varies between one and five centimeters. The funnel-shaped flowers can be single or double, as well as white, red or pink, sometimes with a yellow throat. The most popular varieties in this country are the Mandevilla sanderi and the Mandevilla laxa (Chilean jasmine).


Cut the Dipladenia Sundaville ’

Since the Dipladenia is not winter hardy, it is only grown as a pot or container plant that can be left outside all summer. If you do not want to cultivate it hanging, it needs an appropriate trellis on which it can climb. Even if all species of the genus Mandevilla have very good pruning tolerance, pruning is not absolutely necessary. In spite of everything, pruning is recommended, as otherwise the plants will be very lazy to flower. This is particularly true for vigorous varieties such as the Mandevilla ‘Alice du Pont’, but also for more delicate and filigree varieties such as the Mandevilla sanderi.

If you leave the Mandevilla to its own devices, it climbs unhindered in all directions, wherever it can be held.

The best time to make a cut

All types of Dipladenia grow exclusively on this year's shoots, i.e. the new shoots. The best time for pruning is early spring before new shoots. If you missed the pruning in spring, you can still do it in autumn before the Mandevilla moves to winter quarters. It should not be blended in summer, because then it has a particularly large amount of milky juice. The healing process is now much slower, so that disease infestation is favored.

Even if this plant is very easy to cut, it should not be cut in the blazing sun. Even after the first frost, no more cutting should be carried out.

Instructions for cutting

Due to its excellent pruning tolerance, Dipladenia Sundaville can be cut back vigorously, for example to rejuvenate it. To do this, shoots that are too long are shortened by about half or up to two thirds in the spring. If the respective size is to be retained, all of the side shoots emerging from the main shoot can be removed at the base. After that, many new flower stems form. Otherwise, a cut should always be made 1-2 mm above an outward-facing eye. Diseased, dried up or deformed shoots should also be removed directly at the base. If the space in the winter quarters is limited, the Mandevilla can also be cut back considerably in autumn, before moving into the winter quarters. It tolerates every cut without any problems. However, with a radical cut you should make sure that at least 1-2 buds remain on the main shoot so that it can sprout again in spring. Cutting is preferred in warmer and dry weather, so the cuts can heal faster, so that the risk of pathogens entering is minimized. In order to make accurate cuts and avoid tearing out the interfaces, you should make sure that you have good tools that are sufficiently sharp.

It is best to cut in February / March, because the later the cut is made in spring, the later the flowers will appear. Since the Mandevilla is a so-called dog poison plant, it is advisable to wear gloves when cutting.


The Dipladenia can be propagated by sowing, cuttings or sinkers. It should be noted, however, that species of the Mandevilla ‘Sundaville’ series are protected cultivars and their reproduction is prohibited.


  • The best time to sow is spring.
  • In spring, the seedlings will find good lighting on the windowsill.
  • A high quality substrate is important here.
  • Only then is the germination rate satisfactory.
  • Commercially available potting soil is unsuitable for cultivation.
  • It is best to use a nutrient-poor, well-drained and airy substrate.
  • Improve commercially available substrates by adding perlite, vermiculite or sand.
  • Cactus soil or coconut fibers (Kokohum) are also suitable.
  • Coconut fibers have excellent air permeability.
  • They can also store water very well.
  • Substrate can contain viruses and fungal spores.
  • Disinfect accordingly, with the exception of the coconut fiber.
  • To do this, place the substrate in a fire-proof dish in the microwave for about 10 minutes.
  • Or put in the oven at around 180 degrees for half an hour.
  • After cooling down, it can be ready for use.

Instructions for sowing

First you fill an appropriate growing container, for example a commercially available indoor greenhouse with growing substrate. Spread the tiny seeds evenly on it and cover them only very lightly with soil. Now slightly moisten the soil with a spray bottle. Then cover the whole thing with glass or translucent film and place in a bright place at temperatures of around 25 degrees. Under optimal conditions, the seeds germinate within 2-4 weeks. When the seedlings are large enough, they can be separated. They are planted individually in small pots with potting soil or in a mixture of sand and peat. In order not to damage the roots of the small plants, they can be lifted out of the earth with a pricking stick or something similar. Roots that are too long can be shortened a little. Then you pre-drill the planting holes with a small wooden stick and insert the plants. Then slightly moisten the whole thing again. A mini greenhouse is also recommended for further cultivation, because the microclimate that prevails in it is beneficial for the development of the young plants. Covering with plastic bags is no longer recommended. Because if the leaves of the Mandevilla come into contact with the damp plastic bag, this can lead to rot.


Cuttings can be cut in March / April or June / July. Head cuttings are cut from young shoots in March, and only from older shoots in summer. Cut off about 8-10 cm long leaf cuttings below a leaf knot, the lower leaves are removed. At least one pair of leaves should remain on the cutting. If necessary, disinfect the substrate again. Then fill small pots with coconut fiber or a peat-sand mixture in equal parts and insert the cuttings. These are stuck so deep into the earth that the top pair of leaves peeks out of the substrate. In order to promote the formation of roots, the cut surface can be put into a rooting powder beforehand. An indoor greenhouse is ideal for rooting. The cuttings need temperatures of 23-27 degrees to germinate. Always keep the substrate slightly moist. If the first shoots appear, this is an indication that they have formed roots and can be repotted in larger planters.

In future they will be repotted when the root ball has deeply rooted the pot. This is the case about every 2 years in spring. When repotting, it is advisable to cut back the root ball a little. The new pot should only be slightly larger than the old one, otherwise the flowering will be less.


  • Another type of propagation is by subsidence.
  • Due to the very flexible shoots, this form of propagation is very easy to carry out.
  • The best time for this is early summer.
  • You choose one or more healthy, half woody shoots and pull them to the ground.
  • Where they touch the ground, dig a 10 cm deep groove.
  • Then remove the leaves at this point and scratch them lightly with a sharp knife.
  • Now you put it in the gutter and cover it with earth.
  • To prevent the shoot from slipping out, you can fix it to the ground with stones or wire.
  • The tip of the shoot must look out of the ground.
  • If the Dipladenia shows shoots at the top, the lower part is sufficiently rooted.
  • It can be dug up widely and separated from the mother plant.
You can also pull the corresponding sinker into a pot next to it with a nutrient-poor substrate, place it in a hollow, cover it with soil, moisten it and then continue to cultivate it as a container plant.

Other maintenance of the Mandevilla Sundaville

In addition to the right pruning, Dipladenia Sundaville needs a light and warm location. Full midday sun should be avoided in summer. In turn, locations that are too dark impair the abundance of flowers. The water requirement of this plant is very low, but it should be balanced. The smaller the pot, the more often it has to be watered. Waterlogging is to be avoided at all costs. An organic fertilizer is used every two weeks during the entire flowering period.
Dipladenia Sundaville has to be brought into the house in good time, because temperatures below 7 degrees can be a problem for her. During the winter she wants to stand light, at temperatures between 10 and 15 degrees. If the winter quarters are too dark and too cool, the Mandevilla may lose a large part of its leaves. However, a slight loss of leaves in winter is normal. From February it can slowly be a little warmer again and put outside again in the spring.


As already mentioned, the Dipladenia belongs to the dog poison family and is therefore poisonous or the white milky sap in the plant. This can cause very unpleasant skin irritation on skin contact. This should be taken into account especially if there are small children or pets in the household.

Diseases and pests

Disease or pest infestation is usually caused by poor location and housing conditions. Especially in winter, when there is a lack of light and dry heating air, an infestation with aphids or spider mites can occur. In the Mandevilla, however, pest infestation is rather rare. However, a lack of fresh air can promote fungal infestation. Aphids can partly be removed by showering. You can also spray the affected plant with a soap and spirit solution or brush it on with it. Spider mites, which can be recognized by their silver speckled leaves and fine webs, can be removed with a stronger jet of water as long as the infestation is not too strong. Otherwise you can use commercially available pesticides.

frequently asked Questions

Does the Mandevilla have to be cut back before winter?
It is best to cut them back in early spring. A pruning before wintering is usually only carried out if there is not enough space. It looks different if the winter quarters are very dark, then it is advisable to cut them back radically. Watering should be completely stopped for the duration of the winter.

When can I put the Dipladenia outside?
The best way to get used to the new environmental conditions is to leave the plant outside during the day for the first few days and bring it back in in the evening. Above all, the weather should be frost-free, so don't put it outside before the ice saints. Otherwise you shouldn't put it in full sun straight away, as that could cause sunburn.

What if the Dipladenia does not develop tendrils?
If the Dipladenia does not form tendrils, this may be due to a planter that is too small. So it's best to transplant into a larger pot and wait.